Guide to Agra Fort

If you thought that the Taj Mahal was the only monument worth visiting in the city of Agra then you are mistaken. There is more to Agra then just the Taj Mahal.  There’s another interesting monument called the Agra Fort (2.5 km north of Taj Mahal) which is the second most visited place in Agra and rightly so, the fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site. After you’ve seen the Taj Mahal then make a point to Visit the Agra Fort.

Read more about the Taj Mahal here

The History of Agra Fort

The history of Agra Fort is quite fascinating. The fort used to be a Hindu fortress until it fell into the hands of the Muslim rulers. One of the rulers called Sikandar Lodhi shifted his capital to Agra from Delhi and actually lived in the fort. And when he died in 1517, his son Ibrahim Lodi too lived in the fort for about 9 years. He was killed in a fierce battle in Panipat in 1526 by the army of Babur, the first Mughal Emperor of India. It is said that the famous Indian diamond the Koh-i-Noor (one of the largest diamond in the world) used to be housed here which was seized by the Mughals. Currently, the Koh-i-Noor diamond is part of the crown of Queen Elizabeth and is on display at the Tower of London.

The Agra Fort was rebuilt to what it looks like today by Akbar’s grandson, Shah Jahan (who also built the Taj Mahal). The irony is that, he was imprisoned (along with his daughter Jahanara) by his despot son Aurangzeb. By the way, Aurangzeb had his elder brother Dara Shikoh beheaded and sent the head to his father Shah Jahan and become the ruler of India. Now that Shah Jahan was under captivity, his favourite son and heir to the Mughal throne dead, his beautiful buried in the Taj Mahal – he died a broken heart and it is said that he kept looking at the Taj Mahal in his last days of his life with his beautiful daughter Jahanara (daughter of Mumtaj for whom the Taj was built) at his side.

Anyway, the fort then changed hands again back to the Hindu rulers, the Marathas. But Ahmad Shah Abdali from Afghanistan seized the fort in 1761. He also declared Jihad against the Maratha rulers. A powerful Maratha ruler called, Mahadji Shinde took back the fort in 1785 but to lose it again to the British in 1803.

Structures within the Agra Fort

Anyone interested in History will find this place very fascinating. It is a mix of Hindu and Islamic architecture. It is also considered as one of the five wonders of Indian civilisation. You may not be able to see all sections of the fort as it is still used by the Indian army but you should be able to have access to most of the buildings in the fort complex. The Diwan-i-Am or the Hall of Public Audience erected by Shah Jahan in 1628 is my favourite. There’s a small chamber overlooking the Diwan-i-Am which is where Shah Jahan was imprisoned. There are little stories of the whole place which you can learn if you hire a guide. 

Some of the other structures that you should not miss within the Agra fort include mosques such as the Nagina and Mina Masjid, palaces such as the Macchi Bhavan, Khas Mahal and Shah Jahani Mahal and the Zenana Mina Bazaar.

Essential India Travel Guide: Travel Tips And Practical Information

Other structures of Agra Fort

Amar Singh Gate, The second gateway, Shah Jahani Gate, Akbari Mahal, Akbar’s Baoli, Hauz-i-Jahangiri (Jahangir’s Bath), Jahangiri Mahal, Khan Mahal, Anguri Bagh, Mussamman Burg, Sheesh Mahal (Turkish Bath) and Moti Masjid (Pear mosque). Now you get the drift! The place is very big therefore one of the best ways to enjoy this place is to hire a guide. You will find them as soon as you enter the place. You can’t miss them as they will be touting for business. But make sure you hire an approved guide and photographer if you need one by checking their identity cards.

Getting to Agra Fort

The best way to get to Agra is via tourist coaches from Delhi. Your hotel can also organise you a taxi for the day but I would not recommend this as it takes about 4 hours to get to Agra from Delhi and you need time to see these magnificent places. In addition, if you have hired a taxi for the day then you will need to get back to Delhi and most likely you will get there close to midnight. I would recommend staying in Agra. There are excellent 5 star hotels in Agra. A good place to check hotels in Agra is here https://www.hotelsinagra.net/.

You can always take a train from New Delhi Railway Station to Agra. The one I think is good is the Bhopal Shatabadi that runs all day of the week except Sundays at 6’O clock in the morning and arrives in Agra Station at 8 am. The other one you can take is the Taj Express at 7:10 am and runs every day including Sundays. Your hotel will have timings. There is an Agra Fort Railway Station and some trains from Delhi such as the Udyan Abha Toofan Express do stop at this station.

Things to remember

Eating and smoking is not allowed and you will be checked at entry gate. So if you have cigarettes on you then it is best you leave it at your hotel or taxi. If you did have them in your bag then you will have to convince the security guards that you will not consume them. But mind you, they might try to extort money out of you. Yep…EXTORT money. Welcome to the state of Uttar Pradesh, one of the most corrupt states of India after Bihar which is where I come from.

Best time to visit Agra

The best time to visit this place is between the months of November and March, when the temperature is moderate. Don’t forget to take some bottled water with you. Here’s a water buying guide in India. You will need a good few hours to explore the place so do make sure you have something to eat before you come. There are excellent restaurants around the complex, just asks your driver to take you there. But mind you, since it’s a tourist area, you might have to pay a slightly higher premium.

TAJ MAHAL: Taj Mahal in Pictures: Travel Guide to the Taj Mahal

Address of Agra Fort

Rakabganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India (10 minutes drive from the Taj Mahal)

Phone: +91 562 296 0457

If you have bought a ticket to Taj Mahal, you can enter the fort using the same ticket at an extra cost of about 200 Rupees. If you haven’t bought tickets to Agra then it will cost about 300 Rupees (Indians only pay 20 Rupees). Children of any nationality below the age of 15 years do not have to pay anything at all.

If are travelling to Agra then here’s some facts about the Taj Mahal and how to get there. Here’s a personal experience of my friend at the Taj. So if you are in Agra, don’t forget to visit Agra Fort.

If you are considering Agra on your trip to India then you might be interested in my Travel Guide to the Taj Mahal.

Mumbai travel guide book

I am delighted to inform readers of this blog that I have published a new book called Mumbai Travel Guide. I have decided not to publish this in the paperback version as it contains links to maps of the various places to visit in Mumbai hence can only be bought in the ebook format.

Mumbai Travel Guide

Travel Mumbai: Places to Visit in Mumbai: Mumbai Travel Guide

What’s covered in the Mumbai travel guide book:

The city of Mumbai – Contains everything you would want to know about Mumbai.
History of Mumbai – A brief history of the city.
Getting around Mumbai and transport systems in Mumbai – About the various transport systems in Mumbai.
When to visit India – The best time to visit India.
Places to eat in Mumbai – Various types of food and places to eat in Mumbai.
Places to visit in Mumbai – The best places of Mumbai that you would not want to miss.
Other places to visit in Mumbai – Some other places to visit.
Forts in and around Mumbai – The popular forts in and around the city.
Places to shop in Mumbai – Markets of Mumbai for you to shop.
Important numbers and contacts – You will need this if you are visiting Mumbai just in case something happens.
Local words and phrases – Some words and phrases for you to use when in Mumbai.

Hope you will like my Mumbai travel guide book. “Travel Mumbai: Places to Visit in Mumbai: Mumbai Travel Guide” is now available to download on all Amazon stores around the world.

Top 10 things to do in India in 2016

India as a tourist destination has plenty to offer for everyone. It is a mix of almost everything with different culture, customs, traditions, variety of architecture and lifestyles. There is a so much to discover and things to in India that if we try to explore the nation we will have a never ending list at our hands. But there are a few places which just can’t be left out. 

Here are the top 10 things to do in India in 2016

Visit Goa:

Sunset in Goa

Goa is the most adventurous, enthralling and exotic tourist destination in India and very different from rest of the Indian states, which it owes to the prevalent Portuguese culture. Goa attracts millions of tourists not only from India but from all over the world.  Goa has the world’s best beaches and one of the most preferred honeymoon destinations.  The blue waters, palm trees, white sand and the beautiful sunshine make its beaches the most picturesque and a natural tourist attractant. The oozing beaches during the night make the nightlife amazing and late night beach parties are the most happening thing in Goa. Goa is known all over the world for its beautiful beaches and relaxed lifestyle but there is more to Goa than the beaches. Goa has beautiful cathedrals, temples, shrines and wildlife. So, move over Hawaii, Mauritius and Pattaya and come to Goa for a holiday of your life. 

Take the Manali to Leh Road Trip:

Leh in Ladakh

Off late, Road trips have been generating a lot of fascination and curiosity. Especially among the youth there has been a lot of interest about the road trips. But the road trip from Manali to Leh is not for the amateurs, it’s for the pros and daredevils. The Manali-Leh route has become the favourite route for all the roadies because of its rough terrain and it offers the most challenging ride, ride through the steepest mountains, and ride on the highest road in the world. This road trip offers excitement and experience which cannot be matched by any other road trip in the universe. 

Enjoy Indian Festivals:

Holi colours sold in the market

Festivals are one thing that are in complete abundance in India and most of the festivals are celebrated with much joy and vigor. Each festival is different, vibrant and colorful and is celebrated in a unique way. Also, each festival has a unique story behind it. The most celebrated festivals in India are Holi and Diwali. Holi is the festival of colours, marked with colors flying in the air and water being splashed over everyone. Diwali is the festival of lights and is the most celebrated and awaited festival in the country. The fireworks and colorful lighting and candles are most common scenes on this day.  

Visit the Kerala backwaters:

Kerala backwaters houseboat. Source: Globetrotter girls

Kerala is popularly known as God’s own country, is one of ten destinations included in ten paradises in the world. The backwaters are a network of lakes and canals, both man-made and natural, from one end of the state to another. Flowing through the lagoons and blue lakes parallel to the Arabian Sea on a boat, gives a feel, altogether of a different world. Read about the Globe Trotter Girls and their experience of Kerala. 

Visit the Darjeeling tea gardens:

Singhalia Ridge Trail, Darjeeling. Source: katstan’s photostream Flikr Creative Commons

Darjeeling is one of the most scenic and popular hill stations in West Bengal. Lying at the foot of Himalayas, Darjeeling has been a hotspot for tourists. The Darjeeling Himalayan railway is one of the UNESCO’s world heritage sites and a ride on the toy train is must for anyone visiting Darjeeling. But the highlights of Darjeeling are its Tea gardens. It is also known as Tea capital of India and well renowned for it all over the world. 

Visit the Taj Mahal:

The Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal is a mausoleum and one of the Seven Wonders of the World. This mausoleum is a symbol of love. This beautiful white marble marvel was made a Mughal King named Shah Jahan in the 17th century for his beloved ailing wife Mumtaz. Taj Mahal attracts tourists from all over the world and is a foremost tourist attraction in the country. 

TAJ MAHAL: Taj Mahal in Pictures: Travel Guide to the Taj Mahal

Banaras boat ride:

Hindu Cremation Banaras

For anyone visiting the most ancient city in the human civilization a morning boat ride in the holy River Ganges is a must. Banaras attracts a lot of tourists from Europe, who seek solace and divine guidance. Don’t forget to drink the bhang (marijuana) lassi from government owned bhang shops while you are here. 

Take the Bombay to Goa train ride:

Gateway of India Mumbai

Konkan railway is the most extensive and biggest infrastructure project and a construction marvel. Konkan railway connects Mumbai to Mangalore through Goa. The journey is as picture perfect as it can be. The route is around 750 km and is parallel to the Arabian Sea. The captivating greenery, waterfalls, lakes, bridges, tunnels and stunning visuals will leave you spellbound. 

Visit Rajasthan:

Amer Palace, 11 kilometres from Jaipur

Rajasthan is the state of Forts and Palaces. Rajasthan is known for its hospitality and wonderful architecture. The city of Jaipur, Udaipur, Ajmer and Jodhpur attracts domestic as well as foreign travelers. Rajasthan is a beautiful state with a rich heritage and a glorious past. 

Enjoy Mountain Railway trains:

Ooty the popular hill resort in Tamil Nadu

These mountain trains are small historic trains still running at a few hill stations in India. The trains are slow but a ride on them has a charm of its own. These trains presently run on just four routes, these are Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Kalka-Shimla route, Ooty Nilgiri Mountain Railway and Matheran Hill Railway.  

India is an exotic, elegant, extravagant nation which offers an unmatched experience to any traveler to this beautiful country. Hope some of these things to do in India will will give you the feel of what India is all about.  

Essential India Travel Guide: Travel Tips And Practical Information

Beware of a new scam by auto rickshaw drivers in cities around India

A new scam has come to light. I got to read about this in a major Indian newspaper. They reported that 4 single women got sucked in this scam in the city of Bangalore. This is how it goes. As soon as the auto takes off, the driver hands the woman, two 500 Rupee notes in exchange for ten 100 Rupee notes. When the woman takes the notes then the driver suddenly takes the wrong route and asks for an extremely high fare. When you the woman demands the driver to stop, he threatens her with violence. There is nothing much one can do in such a situation. Only sane thing anyone can do is to comply with the driver, pay the fare they want and try get out of it.

Here are some tips to avoid getting into these situations:

• Make a note of the registration number and ask the name of the driver. Take a photo of the registration number on your mobile if have to.
• Never take the money from the driver. Tell them you don’t have change.
• As soon as you feel as if the driver is going to do something wrong start recording with your mobile or camera.
• Try to get an idea of the route if you can which means buying a map of the city you are in.
• If you are travelling alone then let your family or friends know your travel itinerary. This way they will know the places you intend to visit.
• If you feel unsafe get out as soon as the driver stops (for example at a traffic light).

Here are more tips on hiring auto rickshaws in India.

Find the Twitter handle of the city police and tweet to them with appropriate Hastags. Hastags start with symbol #. You can also tweet to “Nitin Jairam Gadkari” the Minister of Road and Highways. There was an incidence when a mother travelling with her five year son on the Indian Railways ran out of milk for her baby and she tweeted about it to the Railway Minister of India. Believe if or not a bottle of warm milk and biscuits was provided to the mother. This means that the tweet was read by the office of the minister.

For instance if you want to tweet, you could do something like this “I am in trouble with this auto rickshaw driver (add location and reg number) in #DelhiPolice @MORTHIndia. HELP ASAP

Please note that majority of auto rickshaw drivers are honest individuals and work hard for their livelihood. But it appears that some bad apples are there to scam you. Just beware.

India Travel Survival Guide For Women

Try Gol Gappa the popular street snack in India

Gol gappa (Gol Gupppa) is the North Indian name of the dish which is widely known as Panipuri.  It is also known as gup chup, poochka, phoolki and pani ke bataashe. The gola gappa is one of the most popular of all the Indian street foods other than the chaat. Here’s a guide on Indian street foods.

The dish can be prepared quickly; especially if the crisp semolina and flour mixed puris are ready at hand.  The hollow small rounds of puri wait to be filled with masala made of potato, onion, chickpeas, chaat, sprouts, mint and tamarind sauce.  For some special golgappas, the filling includes ragda, which gives it a different taste all together. For the person travelling in India, it is difficult not to come across a street vendor selling golgappas every few minutes, unless they are travelling in some barren land. The delicious taste, easy availability and low cost has made it one of the most desired snack of every season.

The puris are made small enough to fit into the mouth. Once inside the mouth the crispy puris break and give way to the filling to spread around and tickle those taste buds. It is common sight to see people showing the whole masala filled puris into mouth and relishing it one after another on the streets of India. Many of lovers of gol gappa are known to be voracious eaters of the snack. It is a sight in itself to watch the vendor quickly fill the puris one after another and hand it over to the customer one at a time.  They are also served in platter made out of dried sal leaves after cracking a small hole in the perfectly round puri and filling it with desired masala and tamarind water. Some people prefer sweet golgappas whereas other may love eye watering spicy ones. The catch about eating golgappa is that it should be consumed immediately once filled with water. If not the puris will turn soggy and become leady spilling out the contents inside it. Not only is the preparation of golgappas an art, eating them smartly is great skill in itself. Often they are washed down with a bowl of spicy or sweetened water which is served by the vendors. It could be made of tamarind, lemon, dates or mint.

Having a golgappa. Photo by “The.Rohit”

It is not an expensive dish and affordable by everyone which has made it so popular that many call it the king of all snacks. It is common sight to see the friends share the golgappa from a single plate which makes them feel bonded together. Most of the youngsters usually hold competition to see who can gulp down most golgappas. This is a delight for the vendor. For some reason it is known to be a favorite snack with girls. One of the reasons could be that unlike boys, girls cannot sit on roadside in a gang, smoke or have fun openly without incurring the wrath of their parents. The only open get-together for them will be beside a golgappa stall where their parents will not object. In India, mostly the boys ask the girls out to share a golgappa more than sharing a coffee together. Though the dish is known to have originated in Bihar at present it is popular all over India and also in neighbouring countries of Pakistan, Bangladesh and Nepal. One of the varieties of golgappa prepared in Kolkata called Poochka in the local dialect is most famous of the snack.

The invention of gol gappa

One of the mythology tale says that, when the Arjuna won over Draupadi in an archery competition beating all his rivals, he proudly told his mother about his victory. His mother Kunti without seeing the woman, said him to share his victory with his brothers which saw that Draupadi had to marry all the five Pandava brothers. Later, Kunti was worried that Draupadi may not do justice to all of her sons; therefore she decided to test her new daughter in law. Giving her just enough dough to prepare one roti, she asked Draupadi to serve the Pandavas. The intelligent woman Draupadi was, prepared five small puris, filled it up with some left over potato dish and served it to the Pandavas. Kunti could see for herself that her daughter in law was not partial to any of the Pandavas, in addition she had come up with a new dish wish was delicious and relished by her sons. This is how Draupadi is known to have won over the hearts of the Pandavas and her Mother in law.

Panipuri in a plate served in a restaurant

Though earlier the snack was prepared only by golgappa vendors, how people have started preparing in their homes, according to taste. Some people are known to add vodka or whisky to the water when it is prepared at home, though that would be considered an offence if done by street vendor. Once the snack of the poor, golgappas have entered all the expensive restaurants and become a part of fine dining in India. If are not sure if about eating it on the streets,  just ask your restaurants if they can make these gol gappas for you.

Photos of the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya

Bihar has some of the most important pilgrim sites not just for Hindus for also for Buddhists. One of the most popular Buddhist sites in the world is the Mahabodhi temple in the town of Bodh Gaya. This place marks where Lord Buddha got enlightenment. It is said that After Siddhartha Gautama left his palace; he wandered aimlessly till he came to Gaya. He decided to sit under the peepal tree (now known as the Bodhi tree) and mediate till he got the answers to the sufferings (dukkha) in the world. The original tree may not exist but an offspring of the original tree marks the exact spot where he sat. You can find people collecting leaves that fall of the tree and many sit there and meditate. In 250 B.C (200 years later) Emperor “Ashoka the Great” visited the spot and founded a temple and a monastery. The temple declined as Buddhism declined in India but Burmese and Sri Lankan rulers restored the complex. The place is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here are some of the pictures of the Mahabodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya. You can get there by train, coaches or road from Patna, the capital of Bihar and from the Indian capital. You can read more about Buddhism in my book.

Mahabodhi Temple

Inside of Mahabodhi Temple

The Bodhi Tree

Worshippers at the Mahabodhi Temple

The Mahabodhi Temple

Pilgrims meditating at the Mahabodhi Temple

The beautiful Mahabodhi Temple

Eating beef in India

Note: Being a Hindu I have never eaten beef and neither do I intend to. I do not endorse the killing of cows and I am for complete ban on cow slaughter throughout India. This post is for information only.

Some foreign tourists from the USA and Europe love their beef so much that some of them start having withdrawal symptoms if they don’t eat beef for a period of time. Now if you are one of those people who are craving for a ham burger or beefsteak while on your trip to India, you’re out of luck. Most places in India will not have beef on their menu. In fact, you are not going to find any beef in any fast food chain restaurants including western ones such as McDonald’s, Pizza Hut or Domino’s. You won’t find the Big Mac burger in an Indian McDonald’s restaurants rather you’ll have a ‘Maharaja Mac’ which will be the same size as their Big Mac counterpart but will have chicken burgers in it.

Mughali Beef curry in Agra, India. Photo by VasenkaPhotography

If you are craving for beef during your stay in India then a good place to go is Goa. About 27% of the population of Goa are Christians and many restaurants run by Christians will include beef (also pork) on their menu. In fact, many restaurants at the beach especially in the tourist areas will serve beef burgers. Although, Hindus of Goa won’t eat beef there is little taboo about eating beef in Goa.

In Delhi, the capital of India, most Hindus may not know this but many foreign owned restaurants and Muslim-dominated areas of Nizamuddin area of New Delhi or Jama Masjid (Jama Mosque) of Old Delhi will serve beef. The menu may not have explicit labeling of cow meat but many regulars will know about it. So you will need to enquire in these restaurants if they serve beef or not. Many Hindus may not have a clue that they have mistakenly eaten beef being sold as mutton (lamb) in some of these restaurants. You can identify Muslim restaurants by the signs at the entrance. They will have an Urdu sign along with Hindi and English. In addition, devout Muslims wearing skull caps, so you might find people at the till or the waiters wearing them. Although slaughtering of cows is illegal in Delhi, it is still available in Muslims areas of Delhi.

Beef market in kerala. Photo by Nicolas Mirguet

However, beef is legally available in Christian dominated areas of Kerala, Tribal Jharkhand (former South Bihar), Muslim populated areas of West Bengal and the whole of Buddhist/Christian North-East India. Calcutta (now Kolkata) has a large illegal Muslim Bangladeshi population operating beef markets that cater for the numerous restaurants and dhabas there.

The state of Uttar Pradesh stands as one state that has large number of cow slaughterhouses for meat export. Beef can be found in Muslim areas of Rampur, Ghaziabad, Moradabad, Aligarh, Agra (where the Taj Mahal is). Hyderabad is another place where you can get beef. It said that that Hyderabad is the best place to have beef biryani and kebabs. In fact, the Hindu “dalits” of Hyderabad have been eating beef in India for centuries.

Interestingly, the people in the state capital of Kashmir, Srinagar the only Muslim dominated state of India refrains from consuming beef keeping the Kashmiri tradition of religious and cultural harmony alive (known as Kashmiriyat or Kashmiri Nationalism). However there is no such taboo in the Kashmiri countryside. Recently some kind of disruption has been brewing up. Some Muslims of Kashmir have taken up eating beef just to piss the Hindus off.

You need to remember that cow meat are often replaced by cheaper bull or buffalo meat and sold as beef. You will have to confirm this with the restaurant. If people of Europe can be cheated into eating “horse meat” rather than beef, this can easily happen in India too.

Why beef cannot be found on the Indian menu

• Hindus consider the cow as the symbol of life (and cows not worshipped)
• Cow meat is not feely available in India
• Any hint of cow slaughter can trigger riots
• There is no big demand for beef
• There are no organized slaughter houses for cows
• Most Indian states have banned cow slaughter
• Slaughter of cows is a sensitive issue
• India has a civilian anti-cow slaughter and cow enforcement team

There are some (so-called) intellectuals and historians who claim that Hindus used to eat beef in ancient (referred to as Vedic) times. Funny thing is that many of these English speaking intellectuals don’t even speak a word of Sanskrit and they come to the conclusion that Hindus once used to eat beef. Fact is that mainstream Hindus never eat beef. Anyway even if they did in ancient times it doesn’t mean Hindus have to eat beef now. Times change and religions evolve and we don’t eat beef in this day and age.

You can learn more about Hinduism in my book
Hinduism Made Easy: Hindu Religion, Philosophy and Concepts

However, you still can find beef in some upscale restaurants, hotels and bars with a significant foreign customers and some non-Hindu owned restaurants. Despite non-availability of beef, India happens to be the world’s third largest beef exporter after Brazil and Australia. At the moment, there are restrictions on eating beef in many Indian states. The best option is to refrain from eating beef in India completely.

Just a few days back, a man was murdered in his own house because the villagers thought that he had beef in his fridge. The disgusting paid Indian media is currently trying to whip up this story. Most of the Indian channels are run by supporters of the opposition parties hence they will do everything to create tension and defame the current ruling party. Anyway, whatever the case maybe, people of India takes the killing of cows very seriously.

Finally, I strongly suggest you DO NOT attempt to eat beef in India. We love our cows and in addition there are 24 out of 29 states in India that have some kind of regulations prohibiting cow slaughter and sale of beef.